Day 13 - Changes in Altitudes
Lubbock, TX to Taos, NM
A familiar concept is what I like to refer to as, "planning not to plan". I get it! Some folks will read that line and immediately become short of breath. And I respect people who take the time to plan every detail... Really! I do!! But that ain't me. Ever heard the mantra, "It's not the destination, it's the journey"? Well, we're quite literally living those words as we continue to push into the West. No "plan". Just a concept and a cause. So far, so good...
The reality is, I'm pretty practiced at planning not to plan. In fact my travel crew, Sara and our two closest friends, Paul and Jennifer, have practiced planning not to plan several times, touring a number of countries in Western Europe and the better part of Ireland (two different trips) with nothing more than a start point and an end point. We would drive around the countryside until we found a place we wanted to spend time in and then figure out where we'd lay our heads at the end of that day. Simple as that. Risky and unpredictable! But simple. And yes, this has backfired on us, but only once. (Damn you, Zurich, Switzerland!)
Anyway, in the case of the Healing Road I've got a truck-full of camping gear at my disposal too, so that's a worst case scenario.
The reason I explain all of this is because our "plans" are now completely fluid. With a goal to make the Grand Canyon and Vegas, I considered a number of available routes and where those may take us. For the novelty of it I thought Roswell, NM would be a cool place to check out - all the alien stuff, etc., but several friends and even people we've talked to along the journey have suggested that it's not worth the trip. However, another long time friend asked me if we'd consider Taos, suggesting it's an amazing little mountain town situated along the Sangre de Cristo mountains with lots of cool attractions and authentic New Mexican culture and cuisine. That was enough for us! Roswell is out, Taos is in! As well, Taos is more or less on the way to the Four Points Monument where New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, and Colorado all meet. This is the kinda place I want to see along the way. And really, I want to see it because then I can say that I've done it and I never have to do it again! But as for Conor, should he have children someday and decide to relive this journey, it's a unique waypoint to include and it tells a story, as well. But before we get to Four Corners, remember the whole, "It's not the destination, it's the journey." bit? Well, the road from Lubbock to Taos was breathtakingly beautiful and it packed several surprises along the way.
The first big surprise came about an hour into New Mexico when we started seeing signs for, "Billy the Kid's Gravesite". The second I mentioned seeing the sign, Conor was in! And funny enough, we only just watched "Young Guns II" maybe a month ago, so he was familiar with the names Doc Spurlock, Jose Chavez y' Chavez, Arkansas Dave Rudabaugh, and Pat Garrett. What a find! Situated about three miles from the lonesome two lane highway, we made our way to Old Fort Sumner Cemetery where the Kid was laid to rest after Pat Garret shot and killed him. But more than that, the "Old Fort Sumner Billy the Kid Museum" was only a few miles away and we would absolutely be stopping there, too!
This makeshift roadside museum was pretty humble from the outside; I kept expectations low. Well, expectations were exceeded. The museum was run by a husband and wife team - both of them well into their 80's. The gentleman greeted us at the door wearing a cowboy hat, collared western shirt, bolo tie, suspenders, and boots that looked to be about as old as he was. "Authentic" doesn't cover it. He gave us a few points of interest to check out and set us on our way... An hour later, we were still touring this museum! It was amazing! News story clippings about the Lincoln City War, the infamous "Regulators", the history and origin of each of the Kid's accomplices, their weapons, their saddles, actual "Wanted - Dead or Alive" posters. Legitimately how the West was won in black and white...
When I asked the gentleman curator how he came to have all these pieces, he said his daddy started collecting memorabilia when he was only 20 years old! Remember I mentioned this man appeared to be in his 80s? Considering that, I estimate this family has been collecting Fort Sumner and Lincoln City War memorabilia between 120 and 130 years. That is remarkable in and of itself. What a great find! But we still had a few hours to go...
The road to Taos was in no way a direct route. In fact, 80 miles took about two hours by way of narrow two lane mountain roads through a number of small communities and villages with 25 MPH and 35 MPH speed limits. Though again, I didn't mind. All apart of the experience, I thought. And then we really started to climb, ascending to an elevation of about 7,000 feet, where as Lubbock was only 3,000 feet. If you're keeping track at home, that's a 4,000 foot difference in elevation and it is absolutely noticeable. It was also quite beautiful, scenic, and serene.
When we finally got to Taos we pulled up to our motel; a really cool, kitschy drive-up motel called, "Inn on the Rio". We shared a conversation with the Inn keeper, dropped the bags in our room, and off we went. First up? The Rio Grande Gorge. A 700 foot deep gorge that's as awesome as it is dizzying. From there we made our way into historic Taos and walked the many markets, coffee shops, and restaurants. Moving from store to store, Conor would always make his way to the jewelry counter. With so much turquoise and local gemstone jewelry available, he would find one item and call me over and say, "Dad, Mommy would love this.", point out what he was looking at, and then move along. It's his own way of keeping her memory alive, I think. An opportunity to consider his mother in our travels, and I welcome it. In fact, I love that he's still considering Sara. And for that matter, that he's "shopping" and selflessly considering her makes me proud. His empathetic heart hard at work, and that's not something that can be taught.
Until tomorrow, friends.
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